Tool Brands

[Brandon Orr]

Man I ran over that gen with my van. I'm lucky it even works.

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I did the same thing to my Yamaha. Ran it over in my truck, well I hit it good.

[Dave Gallagher]

I hate to say it, but Snap on is the way to go. I've used mine a hundred times a day for the last 6 or 7 years and I've yet to have an issue with them. The problem with rotor bolts is they are very shallow and leave little room for error. So having a quality tool that is reliable is what counts. I use mine with electric impacts and regular ratchets and torque wrenches all the time. The cars I work on are picky and like when things are torqued properly. Buy quality and you won't have a problem.

[Kasey Lewis]

you won't find an impact with a torque setting (if I'm wrong, PLEASE show me one and I'll buy it). I've been down this road. Impact drivers are best for removing. Using them to torque down fasteners is risky. That being said, on my R6 I made a witness mark using a punch at the top/side of the rear axle where it's visible near the chain adjuster. Then I torqued the nut to spec and made a mental note of where the safety wire hole is. Now the position is repeatable so I can (carefully) use my impact driver on the rear axle nut.

I'll snag one and see how it likes and impact, my guess is not so much lol

Powerbuilt 940962 1/2" Drive Digital Torque Adapter, 29 to 147 ft-lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085WMOOU..._O-lRzbXH0VA40



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[Christopher Simmons]

Tools, TVs, phones, watches, or whatever..... If you do a just a little research and buy a known brand name that costs just a little above average, you will probably be happy. Not always........but usually.

[Rab McNaught]

I bought the Husky set from Home Depot, and it rounded out the first bolt I tried to undo...guess I'm going to have to fork out the tokens for a good Snap-On set.

[Brandon Orr]

I bought the Husky set from Home Depot, and it rounded out the first bolt I tried to undo...guess I'm going to have to fork out the tokens for a good Snap-On set.

If it is rounding your bolts, the material must be aluminum or something on the softer side.
I would think they are either over torqued or they have Loctite.
Have you tried heating just the bolt head? Use a small torch and stay away from the wheel bearings.

[Rab McNaught]

I overtighten everything, and use blue loctite, which is part of the issue, but yeah, I've found some bolt materials to just be made of chocolate and if the allen head isn't spot on, they just round out.

Need to get better at that.

[Jeff Reinke]

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARI20.../dp/B009RYA90G

Adjustable battery powered Impact wrench.

[Walter Walker]

Better bolts are the key. I try to use stainless steel bolts with the same size head or socket on as many things a possible on Treys bikes. Fewer tools required and less chance of rounding off/out. ProBolts sells predrilled bolts in all sizes and lengths in stainless steel.

http://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless...race-spec.html

[Rab McNaught]

Better bolts are the key. I try to use stainless steel bolts with the same size head or socket on as many things a possible on Treys bikes. Fewer tools required and less chance of rounding off/out. ProBolts sells predrilled bolts in all sizes and lengths in stainless steel.

http://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless...race-spec.html

Thanks. I tried probolt for my supermoto brake disc bolts, since they were rounding out. They just couldn't find the exact dimensions I needed, but I admit, their stuff is really good...not cheap, but cheaper than wasting time drilling out rounded out bolts.