Does anyone here have any feedback on the Rapidbike Racing module compared to Bazzaz and PC5?
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Does anyone here have any feedback on the Rapidbike Racing module compared to Bazzaz and PC5?
Ive tuned all of them as recently as the last month or so.. The rapid bike works just like the others except they have 3 differnet levels. First level i would recommend for the typical street rider...just plug it up and leave it alone..
Second level is much like a bazzaz or PC in that i can manaul tune on the dyno and change your mapping and will work fine for %90 of the guys
.. the 3rd level i would recommend for a top level expert that knows when he needs more or less engine braking for a specific turn at a specific track and is constantly searching for the extra tenth of a second and wants full control of all the systems... overkill for most people.
I run yoshiuma's EmPro racing ecu and its insane the amount of adjustment i have... but i set it once 3 years ago and i've never adjusted it.
All 3 have + and -'s .. I can get really smooth maps from the bazzaz because it gives me twice the amount of data cells as a PCV does. Depending on where you get your bike tuned also makes a big difference. Joe blow who has never seen it will take longer to tune it and more than likely charge you more.. Ive only done a few of them.. Ive probably done over 1K bazzaz systems though with just as many PC's and its more of a known industry standard.
I'm a fan of their products. Yaman at RapidBike USA (CyclePro Orlando) is great to work with. He went out of his way helping me with the setup on my 1299s. I went with the RB Race module, RB YouTune, and CANBUS wideband O2's. I can play with LC RPM's, AFR's, etc. all at a stop light. Being able to monitor my AFR's in real time is a neat feature as well.
http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...psmsixa0fm.jpg
I remember meeting you at Plucker's for bike night.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Clark
If you don't mind me asking do you run the same tuning setup for your 675R?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Palmore
Would you recommend this setup if I bought RB Race module with the AutoTune module without getting a tune?
I bought my 675R already prepped, it came with a PC. If I was to do it all over, yes I would go with the RB.
There's no need to get a tune with the AutoTune setup. It's pretty much plug and play.
Lots of guys do this... is it going to result in what a tune would on a dyno?...nope. Is it going to get you close enough so that its safe?...sure. The thing about a dyno tune is that i control all the variables. I have everything in front of me and i can be consistant..where as for you on a race track you will never be able to hold your bike at %70 from 3K rpm's up till redline and then be able to rinse and repeat each throttle percentage.. "Most" bikes like 13.1 afr.. built motors on race gas typically like it a little bit richer. But its all a guessing game with your butt dyno because you dont have mapped data showing you actual power increases from adding or taking away fuel to figure out where your bike makes the most power.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacob Britt
A good example, i did a BWM s1000rr the other day..big bore with Carrillo rods and pistons and some timing thrown as it.. I started at 13.1 just like i usually do..Previous experiences tell me a built engine likes gas.. but this bike was different. It gained 7hp when i dropped the afr to 13.3~13.4
I tell my guys with autotunes to save my base map tune.. turn on your autotune for practice and see what it suggest. Accept trips or adjustments no more than 3 times before reloading the original base map.. the reason being is because you end up building valleys in the map. A good example of that would be an R6 or R1 when the velocity stacks raise up in your airbox.. the AFR does some crazy stuff and if your autotune is chasing your 13.1 suggestions it will eventually run like **** because you built up a valley by adding to much fuel chasing numbers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Clark
Usually the #1 thing i here from guys with an autotune.. "Its not needed".. and %90 of the bikes i've tuned with an autotune have seen a %10 increase after i tuned it. Sometimes i get a guy who understands what he is doing and i cant help him.. but i also dont charge him as much. The fact is without hard data in your hand showing you what AFR your bike makes the most power at your simply smoothing out the map making it safe..you may be making full power...but in my experience i've always found more on the dyno and if your chasing a championship its dumb not to get a custom full tune to get the most out of your bike.
Would you mind explaining to me the theory I've read that an auto tune is better because it'll constantly tune for the type of day? For an example you get your bike tuned in February, it'll run different in June when the weather is different but the auto tune would adapt to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Palmore
Like I said, just some stuff I've read. Not sure if that's true or not.
Thank you for the responses! Much appreciated :)
PCV and some other's (not sure about rapid bike) have the autotune actually adjusting the fuel map as your ride..Effective for big elevation changes like the Pikes peak race because its always sampling and changing as you ride. When you accept the trims it becomes a permanent part of the fuel map.
Bazzaz Autotune and some others.. merely make suggestions based on sampled data and does not change the mapping in live time at all until you accept the trims at which point it will become a permanent part of the fuel map.
Seasonal maps are nice and i my self run a spring map on map 1 and a summer map on map 2. I would still recommend at least one dyno tune so we could find what your bike likes.. The autotune would be enough to adjust for seasonal difference if thats what your looking for but our customers we only charge $75 for additional maps. Lots of racers runs two different types of fuel or seasonal maps as you mentioned.
As mentioned, I can monitor and adjust my AFR's with this setup. I have had this bike on the dyno, twice. I was told not to change a thing. The AFR line stayed between 12.9 and 13.2 for the entire pull. I locked 13.1 into the YouTune, and it made less power, so the auto tune works. Right now the 1299 is making 204hp and 105 tq on an SAE dyno. I haven't seen another Panigale putting down those kind of numbers to the wheel.
I get what you're saying with a custom map being better. I would agree vs just plugging in a RB Race Module and calling it good. I think the difference is that I'm running:
These x2: http://rapidbike.us/products/my-tuni...-tuning-module
Race Module: http://rapidbike.us/products/rb-raci...anigale-1299-s
You Tune: http://rapidbike.us/products/youtune
I'd be happy to bring it up to the shop and give it a few runs if you'd like.
Wait, you can get me another 20hp (10%) with a custom tune?Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Palmore
I'de be happy to run it for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Clark
in your case probably not as you have a better idea of what your doing. But you spent $1800 on what i could have accomplished the same overall goals and power for you for around $600~700 with a bazzaz and a few custom maps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Clark
Im not dogging the product.. its a good one. But I've tuned two superleggeras from ducati austin just using a bazzaz and its turned out great. I'm just giving my experience which is that a simple fuel management system is more than enough for the average racer not wanting to spend over $1k to get his bike running right.
I was a guinea pig, so I got a significant discount but yes, it's not cheap. This also gave me LC and a few other features that I didn't have.
I hate to knock my local dealership but Duc Austin is lacking in the tuning department. They don't have a dyno and their fix for everything is to load a generic Rexxer map.
It's pretty much plug and play.
:hail: